Get Your Ride On!
What Are Some Good Bearings? I want to know what are some good fast affordable bearings. Links would help
i know they say the bigger the wheel the longer they spin but i dont want that big of wheel i want maybe like 52 mm wheels ?
Bearings have ratings called ABEC. You want to go with something like an ABEC 5. Lower is slower with more durability and higher is faster with less durability. Any Bearing around $15 – $20 is going to be about the same quality. You probably wouldn’t notice the difference in bearing speed until you start spending $50 – $100. So going with the cheaper bearings is fine. I like Lucky bearings and Bones Reds. Affordable, fast and durable. I like to replace my bearings every other time I buy wheels. Also, the length the wheel spins doesn’t indicate the speed of the bearing or speed of the wheel. 52mm is my size of choice… great for street, ramp, pool.. etc.
What Are Micro Bearings? I play roller hockey and just recently needed to buy a new set of wheels. I purchased a bunch for pretty cheap. When it arrived and i opened them, i noticed that the bearing slot is a lot smaller than “normal”… what are micro bearings and what are they good for?
Micro bearings are meant to be lighter than normal bearings there for helping you skate that little bit faster there exactly the same as normal bearings only smaller and lighter
Roller Blade Bearings Price? Ok i need ABEC 3, now why do i even start? this is the first time ive had to replace bearings, so whats the best brand? whats the best price?( amazon links would be appreciated) also i need new 45 mm wheels for my hockey roller blades, can anyone link prices on those?(amazon links would also be appreciated here to lol)
again i know nothing about this so can i get some help?
The ABEC number is basically meaningless for skate bearings. In theory higher numbers mean that the bearings are more precisely made and wobble less. However, that is for high speed industrial machines. The allowed wobble in an ABEC 1 bearing is already less than would be noticed by a skater. Some of the best bearing companies (TwinCam, ZeroDrag, Bones) make their best bearings to designs that are better for skating but do not meet any of the ABEC standards.
It is probably better to deal with a shop that is more skate oriented than amazon. If you need to talk with them, they will have a clue.
I get my bearings from RollerBob (www.rollerbob.com) but he doesn’t carry wheels in your size. He is honest and knowledgeable.
A couple of other shops that I have dealt with are http://www.inlinewarehouse.com and http://www.skates.com.
There are a few things you need to know:
Bearing size – There are two sizes 608 (standard) and 688 (micro). 608 bearings are about 7/8 inch outer diameter and 688 5/8 inch.
Obviously, you need to match the bearing size to the wheels that you will be using. Wheels are made for both sizes of bearings and you can change wheel assemblies (wheel, bearings, spacer) with either size bearings in your skates. Once the assembly is together they become a standardized size (more on that below) that will fit any normal skate.
The claim to fame of the micro bearings is that they are slightly lighter. Racers tried them because of this but found out that they are not light enough to make a difference and did not work as well as standard sized bearings. About the only group that uses them any more are hockey players.
The other thing you need to know (if you are changing bearing size or buying complete sets of wheel, bearing, spacer) is the axle size on your skates.
Cheaper inline skates and some better hockey skates use 6mm (1/4″) axles. Better skates use 8mm (5/16″) axles. The spacer has to match both the bearing size and the axle size.
If you have 3 piece axles (there is a threaded screw from each side that screws into the spacer), you don’t need a separate spacer. I don’t think that any skates use these anymore but put that one in to be complete.
Penny Board Bearings? If I were to purchase a custom penny from the website, would I get abec 3 or 7 bearings?
1) i had to google pennyboard. Thanks for making me feel like a tard. No one ever says “element board” or “hook-ups board”, it’s just “skate board” or “skateboard”.
2) The ABEC scale is an industry accepted standard for the tolerances of a ball bearing. It was developed by the Annular Bearing Engineering Committee (ABEC) of the American Bearing Manufacturers Association (ABMA). There are five classes from largest to smallest tolerances: 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9. The higher ABEC classes provide better precision, efficiency, and greater speed capabilities, but do not necessarily make the components spin faster. The ABEC rating does not specify many other critical factors, such as smoothness of the rolling contact surfaces, ball precision or quality/type of steel used.
The bearing material is not specified in the ABEC grades. Bearings not conforming to at least ABEC 1 can not be classified as precision bearings as their tolerances are too loose.
The scale is designed to allow a user to make an informed decision about the type of bearing they are purchasing. High rated bearings are intended for precision applications like aircraft instruments or surgical equipment. Lower grades are intended for the vast majority of applications such as vehicles, mechanical hobbies, skates, skateboards, fishing reels and industrial machinery. High ABEC rated bearings allow optimal performance of critical applications requiring very high RPM and smooth operation.
Abec 1’s are just as good as abec 9’s for your purpose so long as you clean and grease them when they get crud in them. 9’s don’t resist taking on crud any better than 1’s. Save your money. I wasted mine on swiss bones once and tried ceramics and won’t ever do either for a skateboard again.
Skate Board Bearings? Are Lucky Abec 7 Bearings good for street skating
A lot of trick skaters prefer slower bearings, but if you are doing street style and/or just trying to get around town quickly, 7s are OK (a good balance).
The problem with metal bearings is they wear out, and they need to be cleaned and eventually replaced. Ceramic bearings are pretty much indestructible, in my experience.
My friend and I are speed demons, and he is a mechanic for a pro-FWD race team, so, needless to say… we’ve looked into this. The fastest bearings in the world, as far we know, are the VXB full ceramics. Most skate shops don’t even know about them. You have to order them on line.
They are extremely expensive (like $200/set!). I saw some on Ebay for cheaper…
They also sell hybrid ceramics (ceramic bearings with a metal race). They are more affordable but almost as good. That’s what I use on my longboard, and I rode them through 2 brutal Philadelphia winters and they are still as fast as the day I installed them. Ceramic is much harder than steel and it doesn’t rust, so they don’t care about rain/mud/dirt/grime. It just pulverizes the dirt into dust and kicks it back out.
These are the ones I use:
For a skater who rides every day, rain or shine, sleet or snow,
ceramics are a must.
Cleaning Longboard Bearings? Ok so at walmart I found “Fuel Injector and Carburetor Cleaner” Is this ok to use for cleaning my bearings? I wasnt sure about the whole Fuel Injector thing…but I could’nt find one that said JUST “Carburetor Cleaner”
Also could I just use the spray on Lubricant in the auto section? Its made by SuperTech and used for car parts, would it be ok to use that on my longboard bearings?
Also, do I HAVE to lubricate the bearings, what will happen if I only clean them but don’t lube them? Thanks!
I just attempted to clean my longboard bearings today. I only decided to clean them as they looked dirty and kinda made a gravely noise but they were still going fast.
I started with one wheel took the bearings apart, soaked them in methylated spirits and sprayed all the dirt out with a spray lubricant. I washed them in meths a second time then dried them with paper towels and a hair dryer. I then applied a small amount of bearing lube I purchased at a Skateshop.
I thought I had done everything right but when I put the wheel back on the wheel went A LOT slower than before.
I blame the bearing lube. It seemed to slow the bearings when I applied it and spun it to spread the oil. I wouldn’t bother using it again, its expensive and doesn’t seem to work.
With the other wheels I just sprayed teflon spay lubricant into them and they go way better now.
So now I have 1 slow dud wheel. I might try removing the oil tomorrow.
Permanently Sealed Skateboarding Bearings? My ex got me a skateboard about 2 years ago and since I’ve been out of practice I figured what a better way to get my skills back than to practice on a board I could care less about?
So anyway as far as I can tell I have spitfire wheels that are in good shape, however when I started riding again about 3 or 4 weeks ago I noticed my board was sluggish. Luckily my NEW girlfriend was nice enough to buy me brand new Bones Swiss bearings which are absolutely magical and I’ve barely broken them in so yea.
Yesterday I ordered some tools and Bones “Speed Cream” so this time around I could actually take good care of my wheels being that I CANT STAND sluggish bearings. So in the meantime I decided to go back and try to clean my old bearings on the off chance I might need them. (I think I may have tightened the wheel nut too tight and cracked one of new bearings unintentionally, gah!)
Upon getting my old bearings back out I proceeded to try to “get into” the bearing by using a razor blade as I’ve seen many friends do and also on a few youtube videos. But there’s nowhere for me to get the blade in to pop out a cover. There doesn’t even seem to be a cover. The bearing looks like it is completely sealed by the manufacturer. And worse I don’t know what brand they are so I can’t even give a good description. But as I said they don’t seem like they were made to be serviced by the customer. The only writing I can make out on the side is “ABEC-3” (I know what ABEC is don’t bother explaining)
So basically what I’m asking here is, is there something i’m missing here? is there another tool I should attempt to use? and/or are some certain skateboard bearings impossible (literally) to open?
Any advice will help. Thanks!
There are no “sealed” bearings sold for skates or boards, the seals make them really sluggish.
All the bearings you can get have shields. They don’t rub the inner race like seals would but they also don’t keep out water.
A couple terms that you should know: Inner race – the small metal ring that the balls roll in on the inside of the bearing. Outer race – the large metal ring that the balls roll in on the outside of the bearing.
Razor blade to remove shields? Not needed.
There are three types of shields: Neoprene coated, Metal Serviceable, and Metal Nonserviceable.
Neoprene are obvious since you see that instead of metal on the outside. You can remove one by wiggling a pin between it and the inner race to pry it up and pull it off. The outer edge is stuck in the groove on the outer race but the neoprene flexes to let you pull it out.
Metal nonserviceable bearings are not intended to be opened up but you can do it. Just remove only one shield and when you are done, you put the side that still has the shield to the outside of the wheel.
You can tell them because you will see a series of notches in the metal near the outside of the bearing. That makes the remaining metal into spring fingers that latch into the notch around the outer race.
You can remove them with some brute force by destroying the shield. Basically you need to stick something solid into a slot or just punch a hole in the shield with a small nail and rip it off.
Metal serviceable bearings have a flat shield and a very thin C ring around the outside. The ends are only about 3/16″ apart when in the bearing and are cut at an angle (think of this as a close up —–/ /—–) .
You can find the ends of the ring by running a pin around the joint of the shield and the outer race (pointed to the outside) and feeling where it drops into the gap in the ring.
Then pick at the ends of the gap to get the end of the ring to pop out of the groove. Since the ends are cut at an angle, only the end with the point cut towards the inside will come out. You really cannot see which end is which until the ring is out of the bearing so you will need to try both ends until one comes out.
Good Skate Bearings Under $20? So my lucky abec 3 bearings are complete ****. they spin max 5 seconds, and are only like two weeks old. So i was looking for some decent bearings under $20. I don’t really want to try reds because of a bad experience (I tend to bring out the worst in bearings) but I need some reccommendations. I was looking at a few things like the dark chocolate abec three’s and the pig black ops, but I dunno if they’re good or not. Thanks in advance!
Hmm i was gonna suggest Lucky bearings which are under$ 20 bucks. Also i was gonna suggest Bones Redz for$ 20 which would seem like a wise choice but you don’t want those either..
Redz are actually pretty good for a selection of bearings and for that price.
I had Lucky before and they were alright. I simply sprayed WD-40 for them to go a little faster & they did.. Even though most will tell you not to spray that on your bearings cause they damage them or whatever.. BS they didn’t damage mine… But that was my choice. I felt i had nothing to loose cause i was gonna replace them for new ones but did not do that for some time after the Bearings began working a little better..
I had some chocolate bearings before and in my opinion thet aren’t that good. Pretty slow. Maybe the dark chocolates are different who knows.. I never had pig bearings before but i think they make good bearings and the black ops are under $20.
Right now i got some quickies they are fast.. I don’t remember how much i paid for those cause i got them along time ago but i’m sure they were under $20.
Besides Bones, Blackpanthers i think are the second best brand for bearings.. Cant go wrong with those.. They are quality fast bearings.. But i think they are over $20 depending on the class you get.
I heard Shake junts bearings are good many skaters buy them. I never tried them.. They are under or $20 bucks..
There are so many brands & most brands have different levels and versions of bearings that sell cheaper than their superior version.etc..your just gonna have to make your choice and choose what you think is best for your budget..etc.
What Are Bearings For Skateboards? Basicly im asking what thye mean what they do 1st person to explain to me will get the best choice =) i just heard my friends saying something bout bearings sooo w/e please explain =)
Bearings are round flat circles that have a smooth hole in the middle of them. the bearings vary in design and creation, better bearings have a higher “abec” number. EX: abec5, abec7. Different companies make different bearings out of different materials like some bearings are: ceramic, titanium, “swiss”. all of them differ and the best way to find the best is to test them out yourself.
How Do You Clean Skateboard Bearings? I have paint thinner, water, WD-40, some wierd silicone bearing lube that says for bearings but my mom says it will gum them up. I don’t want to buy anything else or if i have to i want to be able to get it realllllllly easy and for cheap. I also want the bearings to be super clean. I know it’s a lot to demand so if you can help it would be awesome. (my bearings are Bones Reds) thanks
Hi dude I found a method what Alway’s works. And whatever you do NEVER EVER use YD-40 on your skateboard. It will break whatever you use it on AND NEVER EVER USE IT ON BEARINGS
Ok first you want somthing like a pickle jar Or a plastic bottle You can fit your bearings in without apllying pressure. And make sure you CLEAN and DRY the containerbefore you use it
!. Ok buy some Nail Polish Remover (best stuff to cut out the dirt) and check the back to see if one of the ingredients is ACETONE.
2. Ok op the sheilds of your bearings by getting a needle and sticking it in the sheild (the red ring in the bearing) and pop it out and make sure you DO NOT bend it.
3. Pop all 8 bearings without the sheilds on into the container and fill it with nail polish remover until it covers all of the bearings and put the lid on AS TIGHT AS IT WILL GO.
4. Ok now skate the bottle vigouresly so the bearings swirl very fast around the bottom of the bottle in the nail polsih remover. Do this for 5 minutes.
5. Let the bearings stand in the bottle in acetone for 1 hour.
6. Ok now remove the bearings and try them with a can of compressed air or a hairdryer untill they are completely try.
7. Ok now put a blob of Grease (bones speed cream is best) into a bowel and dab a screwdriver into it and apply to drops into each bearing.
8. Put the sheilds back onto the bearings and re-attach to the wheels and skateboard.
9. It may seem like they spin slower at first, but after about an hour they will be fast and smooth rolling as ever.
10. make sure to do this regulary so your bearings do not ruse.