Get Your Ride On!
The First Forks? I assume people have been eating with a knife for a while. When did they start using a fork and whois credited with inventing it? Thanks.
Kitchen forks trace their origins back to the time of the Greeks. These forks were fairly large with two tines that aided in the carving and serving of meat. The tines prevented meat from twisting or moving during carving and allowed food to slide off more easily than it would with a knife.
By the 7th Century CE, royal courts of the Middle East began to use forks at the table for dining. From the 10th through the 13th Centuries, forks were fairly common among the wealthy in Byzantium, and in the 11th Century, a Byzantine wife of a Doge of Venice brought forks to Italy. The Italians, however, were slow to adopt their use. It was not until the 16th Century that forks were widely adopted in Italy.
In 1533, forks were brought from Italy to France when Catherine de Medicis married the future King Henry II. The French, too, were slow to accept forks, because using them was thought to be an affectation.
An Englishman named Thomas Coryate brought the first forks to England after seeing them in Italy during his travels in 1608.
Mountain Bike Fork? I ve been riding my bike with little air pressure in my fork. my fork has 130mm travel and now it looks like it has 50 mm travel. if i put air in my fork it should kome back up to 130 mmright?
Yes…..and don’t ride it that way for very long. Bottoming out is rough on the internals and fork parts are a pain to fix and sometimes expensive.
If this is the same Minute 3 fork from your other question, then you want to start with the SPV pressure (the red valve on the right leg). Start out with at least 30psi and you can adjust that later.
Next air up the main spring on the left leg (all black valve)……the best way to do that is by measuring sag, it’s hard to give you a ballpark pressure to start with because different bike setups and your own weight all affect it. Wrap a zip tie around the slider so that it’s snug but not tight…..slide it down to the bottom and when the fork compresses it’ll act as an indicator of travel distance. You want from 20%-30% of your travel to be taken up in static sag (how much it compresses when you’re just sitting still on the bike). This will measure about 1″ to 1-1/2″. Add or subtract air pressure until you get this much sag.
That’s mostly it. You can adjust the SPV pressure to make it easier or harder to begin compressing the fork into its normal travel once you hit a bump. You should adjust your rebound setting (the blue dial on the bottom of the right leg) where you like it (faster rebound for chatter surfaces and slower for regular riding and bigger bumps. You can also adjust the SPV bottom-out volume…..you may need the special socket for that, or your model might have a tool-free adjustment. If you crank it in, the fork won’t use as much of its travel before it ramps up and gets stiff (good for drops and big hits). If you back it out, you’ll have a more plush fork but will risk bottoming out on rough stuff.
Play around with it at different settings…..it may take several rides before you find out how you like it best. Keep notes so you can remember or pick a combination for the trail you happen to be riding that day. And get into the habit of checking the air pressures each time you ride, at least until you know if or how much air leaks out from ride to ride. Most forks will hold air for quite awhile but some leak slowly. It’s a good habit to get into.
On your other question, I put the Manitou website link where you can find user and service manuals for your fork. Hope this helps….good luck with it and post back if you need more help! :o)
Different Forks On A GS500F? I found a Suzuki 05 GS500F that has bent forks and is being sold really cheaply. If I found forks that are the same size (37mm) should they work fine, or will I have some problems fitting them (with the wheel, brakes, and triple trees?) Something like a Honda VF V45 Front forks.
Fork Transplants can get very complicated.
It certainly can be done,,,but in practical terms it’s best to stick with a straight exchange with an original type fork.
Ebay always has “$100” forks for a wide variety of bikes,,,,which is sorta a shame because they can be so difficult & expensive to Cross-Fit.
Worse is,,,they are often Infuriatingly CLOSE,,,and maybe an even Better Fork than original.
It CAN be done,,,but usually costs as much or more by time it’s done.
And if there’s “Nothing Special” about the new fork such as lighter/stronger/better hydraulics/provision for better wheels or brakes,,,etc……..if it ain’t a worthwhile Upgrade,,,,
Then it’s just a Difficult Replacement which results in a Frankenbike.
For a GS500,,,a guy on ebay has an ’09 complete fork he claims from an Unwrecked bike.Nice fork.
There’s cheaper stuff out there,,,,but this is a fair deal.
And it’ll Plug & Play,,,,no need for seals or rebuild,,,or Rusty Legs,etc
No sales pitch,,,just saying
Sorry I dont have a more encouraging answer,,
But on the subject of Fork Transplants I’m generally pessimistic.
Do leave your question Open,,,there’s a good chance someone will have a better answer.
As far as the Bike,,,if it’s a really good deal and you would WANT something like that,,,,,dont let it get away from you for lack of a cheap,immediately available fork.
They pop up all the time,,,and there’s plenty Other resources besides Ebay.
Lottsa Bike Salvage Co’s have parts-search services.
A bit of patience w/ a bit of effeort,,I’m sure you can turn up The “Right” fork deal,,for You.
GS500 is a very nice bike & worth the effort to make it all work out,,,in my opinion.
Motorbike Fork Compressed? Whilst changing my fork oil I pumped the fork to remove any excess oil when it got stuck in the compressed position. It seems thoroughly stuck. How can I free it?
I should have been more specific. The forks are apart. Spring and oil etc out. But the fork tube is stuck entirely down in the stanction. Apparently they can stick like crazy but as its stuck down I can’t remove the drain allen bolt at the bottom of the stanction.
That is not good.
Forks can only stick if there is something bent or broken.
Your fork tubes can be bent. Your damping rods might be bent. Your fork spring(s) might be broken.
Put the bike up on a center stand or milk crates. Remove the front wheel (be careful you might only have one fork tube with the problem, if this is the case the other tube will attempt to extend when you remove the front wheel). Loosen up the triple clamps holding the fork tubes. Remove the tube(s) that are not extending. Place one fork tube at a time into a vice holding the lower slider tube. Remove the fork cap – WARNING – if the fork tube is partialy compressed the fork cap is going to be under tremendous pressure. You may not be able to get it off. If it is threaded, you may damage the threads. If it is held in by a circlip you may not be able to apply enough pressure to get the circlip out. If you can’t get the fork cap off you can then go for the damping rod locking bolt. On the bottom of the slider tube is the damping rod locking bolt. Remove this bolt – WARNING! This tube is under great pressure and when you release the damping rod locking bolt, the spring will extending – if you were unable to remove the spring from the fork cap. This will release the fork tube with a tremendous amount of pressure. It will shoot across the shop. You will then be able to pull the fork tube out of the slider tube. Repeat (if necessary) the other tube. Once you have the fork tubes apart you will be able to see what is bent and/or broken.