Get Your Ride On!
High Mileage Car Question? Ok pretend that I’m going to buy a car with maybe 200,000 miles on it. The 200,000 miles, is it the life of the engine or something?I really don’t understand. If a car has 200k miles, can I just swap It with a new engine then the odometer would return back to spanking new and I can drive it for about another 200k miles then do another engine swap? Can someone explain please.
If you read, I SAID “pretend” that im going to buy a car with 200k miles on it. I just want to get s general idea on how car works because want to learn.
If a car or truck has been 200,000 road miles, every piece and part has been used for the same number of miles. For instance: Wheel bearings, brake system, axles, CV joints, transmissions, electrical system, heater core, radiator, hoses, power steering rack, power steering pump and if so equipped universal joints, drive-shaft, rear end third member gears and bearings, body, paint, gas tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, wheels, tires, interior, steel floor boards, frame, ball joints, shocks, struts, strut bearings, strut bushings, springs, lower control arms, upper control arms, uni-body integrity, suspension arms and bushings, body mount bushings, body bolts, front and rear bumpers and we haven’t started listing the quality of the engine.
Incidentally, you could substitute all the used parts on this list and the odometer still stays @ 200,000 miles. They don’t snap back automatically just because you installed a fresh motor. For the sake of argument say the odometer or speedometer quit working @ 200,000 miles. Nowadays a new car dealer must trade in your speedometer or odometer to a fedrally registered repair shop. Guess what happens next? The new car dealer ship receives a complete sealed speedometer / odometer back for installation. The speedometer will work normally once again. But wait a minute, the odometer will still say 200,000 miles! What to hell just happened you say? It’s a federal law that these special repair shops return the instrumentation showing the origional number of miles.
Do All Trucks Have A Rack And Pinion? I have a 89 blazer. i know my steering works like this.. steering wheel->steering gear-> pitman arm-> ect.
but im confused if cars have both a pitman arm and a rack and pinion, or if they have just one of the two…
thank for your answers!
I’ve only seen 1 truck with rack & pinion, it was an early 80’s plymouth pickup. very rare.
if a car has a pitman arm it won’t have a rack. there’s not enough room for one.
trucks are built to be abused more. a rack unit wouldn’t be able to handle the alleged abuse a steering gearbox would take.
New Car Speakers Truck? I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado z71 I’m looking to get speakers/amps for it and a sound system what would be good speakers that are loud and have a really good bass?
The best thing to do would be to go down to your local dealer(s), shop around, and compare. Every manufacturer is going to sound a little different, and being able to hear them before you buy is a big plus. Some salesmen can be a little pushy – don’t let them sell you anything that you don’t want/need/is outside your budget. I recently bought a pair of subs from a local dealer, and the dude flat out lied to me about having the ones I wanted in stock so he could sell me a pair for twice as much. When I told him I would just order from the manufacturer’s website, he “miraculously” found a pair of the ones I wanted. For subs, I’m not sure how much room you have under your rear seat in your Silverado, but my Ram doesn’t have a lot, even after removing the tool rack. You’ll probably want to stick with subs that will require a smaller enclosure no larger than 1 cubic foot apiece.
If you do find some stuff you like, or want to narrow down your selection from a few, you can always write down model numbers, bring the list home and do some research, read reviews, etc…
Truckers: Is There A Reason That A Women Shouldn’t Get Into Car Hauling? Just curious. I’m not sure what all type of work is involved in loading/ unloading the cars, how heavy and had the work is, etc.
I *am* a female, and I hauled cars for a year and a half. (5 yrs total trucking experience) I did a lot of POV’s (personally owned vehicles) Ebay and auction cars, and I had a job hauling brand new cars off the railhead in Florida to dealerships.
I see no reason why a woman shouldn’t, or couldn’t get into it. The safety concerns apply to men equally as they do women- it can be a dangerous job, I do know a company I worked for paid a RIDICULOUS worker’s comp rate, because even as a small company w/ 60 trucks, they’d had 2 people die and plenty more become seriously injured in the 50 yrs they’d been around.
But, it’s all about working smart, using proper body mechanics as much as possible to protect your back, etc. You need to make sure to take all the necessary safety precautions, put your pins in to keep the racks up when you’re going to be chaining the top row of cars, etc. If you’re hauling OTR or in a place where it gets snowy/icy, it can be a real bugger in the winter, not just because the ramps get icy and the cars want to slip & slide, but the rails where you will be walking to park the cars up top will be slippery too. You just have to take your time, think about where you put your hands and feet, think about each move before you make it. Or, get into hauling enclosed carriers….and ya don’t have to worry about the ice and rain so much ?
In terms of physical strength….Chaining is all about *leverage*…various ways to hook the chains on the cars, various angles…. and you can learn the technique and get cars chained down just as securely as any guy can. If you work for a company who straps the wheels with wheel straps, you need a little more arm strength to work the ratchets, but it’s not bad.
There isn’t much, if any heavy lifting that I can think of. Most of your chains should be attached to your ratchets so you’re not usually carrying chains around. Some types of trailers require you to pick up your ramps and attach them to the back of the trailer for unloading/loading, but they’re usually aluminum and barely weigh 30-50 lbs.
Worst case, you get dirty and sweaty and smelly….or soaking wet, or freezing, depending on the weather. If you haul Ebay cars and such (from a site like Central Dispatch) you’re likely to end up with cars in various states of disrepair; I had a Rolls Royce that leaked every type of fluid you can think of, and therefore had to keep it on the bottom, and therefore had to take it off/on a million times, by the end of the day I was covered in grease and brake fluid. But if you’re OTR….get yourself a good pair of coveralls, and keep showers on your truckstop cards…..not a problem :).
I enjoyed car hauling, I got out of it for reasons not related to my enjoyment of it. I’d do it again if I didn’t already have an incredible job with a great company. The money’s good and it gives you a chance to get out of your truck and exercise, something that’s harder to get hauling freight.
Bmw 535i Problems, Life Expentancy? Know someone looking at a 06 bmw 535i. Car has 60,000 miles. This would be a big step up for him just want to look out for him. Any common problems or 60,000 to high for an 06? how long to they usually last?
Well the car is to new to tell. Miles are not a big issue these days seriously, its a tough thing to accept for most people these days. And yes even age has little to do with judging a car. CONDITION CONDITION CONDITION is the majority deciding factor in buying a used car these days. I want to say this now every model and some times the year of the model have common problems. Since that car is not old enough there really are no common problems on them yet. So with this question there is no way to be able to say “well the cylinder heads typically go at this mileage or the trans at that mileage. But again condition is key NOT mileage. SOoo come cars parts die at certain mileages big whoop they can be repaired and be again in good condition.
So the car racked up 60K in almost or over 2 years depending on when it sold. All cars need care and repairs and not to go back to the miles thing and look like I was wrong about miles. I did point out condition and a good condition car has all the maintenance and parts it needed replaced and not deferred. Hence a good used car is in good condition. When any car/truck racks up that kinda usage in 2 years it most definably a highway used car, meaning its been going down the road at highway speeds for long periods of time in top gear the brakes no being used, hitting bumps in the road at higher speed causes in less wear to the suspension system, the oil pressure is up high ect. basically less stop and go. The basic formula for a highway miles car is 1/3 of the odometer readout. YES YES I know miles are not the issue. just pointing out a car used on the highway a lot wears out parts much slower than a typically used car where lots of city driving is in the formula.
So the only real wear and tear to a mostly highway used car is tires wheel bearing and the drivers seat. Highway cars don’t follow the typical miles it does this thing.
Cars these day don’t have the usual things going on where getting to 200K is near the end of its life mostly becasue the engine is worn out and the cost of replacing is not a smart financial decision, also in the past most makes of cars were very short lived compared to cars starting in the mid 90’s and up.
Yes there are many makes and models and each manufacture has a different life expectancy as to when it becomes downright stupid to put any money into them to keep the in good condition., but in general these days miles and age can’t be looked at as a basis on if the car is worth buying/keeping its all condition.