Get Your Ride On!
The First Forks? I assume people have been eating with a knife for a while. When did they start using a fork and whois credited with inventing it? Thanks.
Kitchen forks trace their origins back to the time of the Greeks. These forks were fairly large with two tines that aided in the carving and serving of meat. The tines prevented meat from twisting or moving during carving and allowed food to slide off more easily than it would with a knife.
By the 7th Century CE, royal courts of the Middle East began to use forks at the table for dining. From the 10th through the 13th Centuries, forks were fairly common among the wealthy in Byzantium, and in the 11th Century, a Byzantine wife of a Doge of Venice brought forks to Italy. The Italians, however, were slow to adopt their use. It was not until the 16th Century that forks were widely adopted in Italy.
In 1533, forks were brought from Italy to France when Catherine de Medicis married the future King Henry II. The French, too, were slow to accept forks, because using them was thought to be an affectation.
An Englishman named Thomas Coryate brought the first forks to England after seeing them in Italy during his travels in 1608.
Mountain Bike Fork? I ve been riding my bike with little air pressure in my fork. my fork has 130mm travel and now it looks like it has 50 mm travel. if i put air in my fork it should kome back up to 130 mmright?
Yes…..and don’t ride it that way for very long. Bottoming out is rough on the internals and fork parts are a pain to fix and sometimes expensive.
If this is the same Minute 3 fork from your other question, then you want to start with the SPV pressure (the red valve on the right leg). Start out with at least 30psi and you can adjust that later.
Next air up the main spring on the left leg (all black valve)……the best way to do that is by measuring sag, it’s hard to give you a ballpark pressure to start with because different bike setups and your own weight all affect it. Wrap a zip tie around the slider so that it’s snug but not tight…..slide it down to the bottom and when the fork compresses it’ll act as an indicator of travel distance. You want from 20%-30% of your travel to be taken up in static sag (how much it compresses when you’re just sitting still on the bike). This will measure about 1″ to 1-1/2″. Add or subtract air pressure until you get this much sag.
That’s mostly it. You can adjust the SPV pressure to make it easier or harder to begin compressing the fork into its normal travel once you hit a bump. You should adjust your rebound setting (the blue dial on the bottom of the right leg) where you like it (faster rebound for chatter surfaces and slower for regular riding and bigger bumps. You can also adjust the SPV bottom-out volume…..you may need the special socket for that, or your model might have a tool-free adjustment. If you crank it in, the fork won’t use as much of its travel before it ramps up and gets stiff (good for drops and big hits). If you back it out, you’ll have a more plush fork but will risk bottoming out on rough stuff.
Play around with it at different settings…..it may take several rides before you find out how you like it best. Keep notes so you can remember or pick a combination for the trail you happen to be riding that day. And get into the habit of checking the air pressures each time you ride, at least until you know if or how much air leaks out from ride to ride. Most forks will hold air for quite awhile but some leak slowly. It’s a good habit to get into.
On your other question, I put the Manitou website link where you can find user and service manuals for your fork. Hope this helps….good luck with it and post back if you need more help! :o)
Different Forks On A GS500F? I found a Suzuki 05 GS500F that has bent forks and is being sold really cheaply. If I found forks that are the same size (37mm) should they work fine, or will I have some problems fitting them (with the wheel, brakes, and triple trees?) Something like a Honda VF V45 Front forks.
Fork Transplants can get very complicated.
It certainly can be done,,,but in practical terms it’s best to stick with a straight exchange with an original type fork.
Ebay always has “$100” forks for a wide variety of bikes,,,,which is sorta a shame because they can be so difficult & expensive to Cross-Fit.
Worse is,,,they are often Infuriatingly CLOSE,,,and maybe an even Better Fork than original.
It CAN be done,,,but usually costs as much or more by time it’s done.
And if there’s “Nothing Special” about the new fork such as lighter/stronger/better hydraulics/provision for better wheels or brakes,,,etc……..if it ain’t a worthwhile Upgrade,,,,
Then it’s just a Difficult Replacement which results in a Frankenbike.
For a GS500,,,a guy on ebay has an ’09 complete fork he claims from an Unwrecked bike.Nice fork.
There’s cheaper stuff out there,,,,but this is a fair deal.
And it’ll Plug & Play,,,,no need for seals or rebuild,,,or Rusty Legs,etc
No sales pitch,,,just saying
Sorry I dont have a more encouraging answer,,
But on the subject of Fork Transplants I’m generally pessimistic.
Do leave your question Open,,,there’s a good chance someone will have a better answer.
As far as the Bike,,,if it’s a really good deal and you would WANT something like that,,,,,dont let it get away from you for lack of a cheap,immediately available fork.
They pop up all the time,,,and there’s plenty Other resources besides Ebay.
Lottsa Bike Salvage Co’s have parts-search services.
A bit of patience w/ a bit of effeort,,I’m sure you can turn up The “Right” fork deal,,for You.
GS500 is a very nice bike & worth the effort to make it all work out,,,in my opinion.
Motorbike Fork Compressed? Whilst changing my fork oil I pumped the fork to remove any excess oil when it got stuck in the compressed position. It seems thoroughly stuck. How can I free it?
I should have been more specific. The forks are apart. Spring and oil etc out. But the fork tube is stuck entirely down in the stanction. Apparently they can stick like crazy but as its stuck down I can’t remove the drain allen bolt at the bottom of the stanction.
That is not good.
Forks can only stick if there is something bent or broken.
Your fork tubes can be bent. Your damping rods might be bent. Your fork spring(s) might be broken.
Put the bike up on a center stand or milk crates. Remove the front wheel (be careful you might only have one fork tube with the problem, if this is the case the other tube will attempt to extend when you remove the front wheel). Loosen up the triple clamps holding the fork tubes. Remove the tube(s) that are not extending. Place one fork tube at a time into a vice holding the lower slider tube. Remove the fork cap – WARNING – if the fork tube is partialy compressed the fork cap is going to be under tremendous pressure. You may not be able to get it off. If it is threaded, you may damage the threads. If it is held in by a circlip you may not be able to apply enough pressure to get the circlip out. If you can’t get the fork cap off you can then go for the damping rod locking bolt. On the bottom of the slider tube is the damping rod locking bolt. Remove this bolt – WARNING! This tube is under great pressure and when you release the damping rod locking bolt, the spring will extending – if you were unable to remove the spring from the fork cap. This will release the fork tube with a tremendous amount of pressure. It will shoot across the shop. You will then be able to pull the fork tube out of the slider tube. Repeat (if necessary) the other tube. Once you have the fork tubes apart you will be able to see what is bent and/or broken.
Whats The Strongest Bmx Forks? I’ve bent every single one I’ve bought, I’ve heard great things about the Odyssey director forks what about those?
Tried ,tested and true a 4130 cromoly fork is the best fork available unless you wish to spend hundreds of dollars.
And then these may be bonded materials or even worse fitted allen key tightened forks.[carbon fibre perhaps or aluminum tubes]
Fact: No butted fork can truly claim that it is stronger than a straight gauge 4130 fork.It is only lighter and some silly engineer said it is just as strong.Math does not drive a bmx bike so it has no place in a tough world.[sorry engineering techy gurus]
Fact: no aluminum fork can ever be as strong in use as a straight gauge cromo fork.This is not because the fork arms are weak but because the steer tube is aluminum or bonded or pressed onto a steel steer tube.
Many disagree with me on this,but I care not
Safety first and nothing beats a 4130 cromo fork.
This is one persons opinion only,yet I have seen what happens when a bmx is fitted with an expensive pretty fork.Only bad things.Yes,sometimes it’s all ok an no one gets hurt,but this is not always the case.
I hope this mere opinion can help you in some way
Tuning Fork!? What professions might use a tuning fork?
What is the function of a tuning fork?
What are tuning forks made of?
+10 to whoever actually answers these!
A tuning fork is an acoustic resonator in the form of a two-pronged fork with the tines formed from a U-shaped bar of elastic metal (usually steel). It resonates at a specific constant pitch when set vibrating by striking it against a surface or with an object, and emits a pure musical tone after waiting a moment to allow some high overtones to die out. The pitch that a particular tuning fork generates depends on the length of the two prongs.
They are commonly used to tune musical instruments, although electronic tuners also exist, and some musicians have perfect pitch. Tuning forks can be tuned by removing material off the tines (filing the ends of the tines to raise it or filing inside the base of the tines to lower it) or by sliding weights attached to the prongs. Once tuned, a tuning fork’s frequency varies only with changes in the elastic modulus of the material; for precise work, a tuning fork should be kept in a thermostatically controlled enclosure. Large forks are often made to be driven electrically, like an electric bell or buzzer, and can vibrate for an indefinite time.
In musical instruments
A number of keyboard musical instruments using constructions similar to tuning forks have been made, the most popular of them being the Rhodes piano, which has hammers hitting constructions working on the same principle as tuning forks.
In electromechanical watches
Electromechanical watches developed by Max Hetzel for Bulova used a 360 Hertz tuning fork with a battery to make a mechanical watch keep time with great accuracy. The production of the Bulova Accutron, as it was called, ceased in 1977.
A tiny quartz tuning fork is used in crystal oscillators, the most notable use of which are quartz digital watches. The piezoelectric properties of quartz crystals cause a quartz tuning fork to generate a pulsed electrical current as it resonates, which is used by the computer chip in the watch to keep track of the passage of time. In today’s watches, they generally resonate at 215 = 32,768 Hz. (See quartz clock.)
Tuning forks, usually C-512, are used by medical practitioners to assess a patient’s hearing. Lower-pitched ones (usually C-128) are also used to check vibration sense as part of the examination of the peripheral nervous system. They are also used therapeutically in sonopuncture.
John Beaulieu, a researcher on the therapeutic benefits of tuning forks, has recorded an album of music made entirely with tuning forks, called Calendula. Dr. John Beaulieu discovered BioSonic Repatterning while sitting in an anechoic chamber in New York University, and recognized the vibration patterns that correlated to musical notes at different octaves. He tried tuning forks at different octaves and could feel his body aligning with the tones. Other researchers into the therapeutic benefits of tuning forks, including Arden Wilken and Jack Wilken.
One system of alternative therapy developed by Francine Milford, is called Tuning Fork Therapy(R). Online correspondence courses are offered to allow for training and practitioners to be certified in this alternative healing therapy. These and other courses are available through the Reiki Center of Venice (Florida).
Radar gun calibration
A radar gun, typically used for measuring the speed of cars or balls in sports, is usually calibrated with tuning forks. Instead of the frequency, these forks have the calibration speed and radar band (e.g. X-Band or K-Band) for which they are calibrated.
Which Size Fork? I have a 52cm Cannondale and wanted to replace the fork. Is there different fork sizes? If so which size would I need? Also is a fork that’s threaded only for quill stems and threadless forks are for threadless stems? thanks
Road bike I assume…
Threaded = quill or with adaptor threadless
Threadless = threadless only
My ‘Dale is a 52cm too, 2002 with a 1 1/8 threadless steerer tube. I bought a new carbon fork for it.
Here’s what you need to know…
1. steerer tube length from crown to end… must be long enough to fit through frame with bearings installed, stem stack height and any spacers you want to raise the stem to your desired height. Too short – you lose, too long cut it to fit.
2. Steerer dia. 1″, 1 1/8″ or 1 1/4″. Most bikes now are 1 1/8, but many older bikes are 1″.
3. Integrated crown designed to match up to the bike’s head tube for looks generally. A non-integrated fork will fit on a integrated head tube bike (just will look crappy) The other way around it may bind.
4. Rake – how much forward the forks slope to put it simply. Most are 43 degrees I believe.
5. Wheel size – 26″, 27″, 700c, 650c. Forks are made to fit certain sizes.
My R2000 now has a Easton EC90 SLX integrated 1 1/8″ 43c rake fork. My old Trek 2100 has a 1″ threaded fork. I bought a threadless adaptor from Nashbar for $10 and used a threadless stem on it. I like theadless over quill because they look better, easier to change out and mose flexable – turn it upside down for higher bars etc.