Fulcrum 2013 Fulcrum Racing Zero 2 Way-Fit HG Wheelset Brush Up

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    Best Road Bicycle Wheel Set For The Money? My buddy and I just started biking and we are getting faster each week but not fast yet by any means. Our question is what wheel set would be worth the money. We heard of Hed 3, Zipp, Mavics, etc… Would love opinions. How much speed per mile could be gained with one of the good wheel sets compared to wheels that are ok that came with bike. Thanks

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      There are all sorts of wheels and they would provide different advantages and disadvantages for different types of riding. For example, severely aerodynamic rims are faster but more prone to crosswinds and, being stiffer are not as desirable for long distance.

      You need to consider weight, durability, aerodynamic resistance, type of tire you will be using (clincher or sewup), numeber/type of spokes, spoke pattern, rim and spoke material, etc.

      I don’t want to recommend a specific brand/model, but in general aim for aluminum alloy rims, stainless steel spokes and quality hubs. While the nicest wheels to ride are light weight (minimizing rotating weight is ALLWAYS desirable, for everyday use you will probably be best to avoid really lightweight wheels because you sacrifice durability. Similalry, while a more aerodynamic cross-section rim is faster you don’t want extremes for reasons given above. Wheels with few bladed spokes (16-20 in the front wheel, 20-24 in the rear) are a bit faster.

      I recently bought a bike and upgraded the stock wheels for the next model up because they were about 150 gms lighter for a pair. because of the alloys and design the lighter wheels are just as strong or stronger … but cost a couple of hundred dollars more. See how a little weight saved can cost a lot?

      If you want speed for the flats or mild hills go with aero wheels, but frankly the difference will be most noticable with bladed/fewer spokes and lighter weight relative to your current wheels.

      One hint .. read reviews then look for used wheels. The links are to just one manufacturer’s lineup of wheels and to a good classified site for used bikes and equipment.

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    What Is The Lightest Aluminum Wheel Set? I was wondering who makes the lightest aluminum road wheels? Mavic?

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      No, not Mavic, although they make some nice light wheelsets. The American Classic Sprint 350 is one of the lightest aluminum wheels you can buy at 1300 grams. The Easton EA90 SLX has a claimed weight of 1398 grams for the pair.

      I’ve owned both Easton (Velomax) and American Classic — my daily rider wheels — and have found them to both be very reliable.

      These weights are for clinchers. Aluminum tubulars are usually marginally lighter.

      Probably one of the best sources is here the Weight Weenies web site, link below. Note how much heaver the Mavic Ksyriums are than the wheels I’ve suggested. Oddly enough, the old SSC model weighs in slightly less than the new SL with the “ground out” rim.

      Weight isn’t everything, but take it from an old guy who does a lot of riding in the mountains, it makes a lot of difference in climbing and sprinting. Stay off these ultra-light wheels if you are overweight. You’ll only break them.

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    Looking To Replace Wheel Set? I have a 2011 Cannondale road bike 63CM, looking to replace the wheel set with sram 60. What size wheel set do i get for back and front?

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      All road bikes have a 700C wheel size. Also, I am pressure sure that the Sram S60 only comes in one size: 700C clincher.

      Can I ask why you want those wheels? I know they look cool and are very aero, but they are HEAVY. The S30 AL series is lighter and cheaper. Unless you are doing time trial or triathlon, you will probably be happier with lighter wheels. Also, deep dish wheels can be squirrely in a cross wind.

      Whatever you decide to do, make sure the wheelset you get has a hub that will work with your current cassette. I think most hubs now are either 10 or 11 speed unless you get a really cheap wheelset. Shimano and SRAM are more or less interchangeable, except for a few dura-ace models.

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    Road Bike – Wheel Set And Tyres Suggestions? Hi all,

    I want to buy a friend some road tyres and wheels for her MTB (size 15.5). My friend plans to do more road cycling and it’s her birthday soon so I was going to surprise her. Any recommendations?

    A nice value for money set of wheels and a decent pair of slicks recommendation would be great. Are wheels more important than tyres or the other way around. Or are they equally important?

    Her MTB has v-brakes, not discs in case that makes a big difference.

    Thanks in advance!
    definitely only road cycling with these new wheels and tyres. She’s got mountain bike tyres and wheels (and suspension) for all that other stuff… I was thinking something thin, light-weight with a nice set of slicks as I can’t see her riding in the wet.

    Any brands I should be looking for? My budget is dependant on the quality of the product vs the reviews it’s received. I have no issue shelling out for kit that is great quality and has rav reviews.. Cheers

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      If you can, look at her tires now. There will be numbers on the sidewall. They will start with either 26X (most likely) or 700x. The x will be followed by another number. If the numbers start with 26, buy her a set of 26×1.5 tires. Make sure they have a max pressure at least 80 psi. I once bought a set with a 60 psi max just because they were on sale and I didn’t like the way they rode. If the numbers start with 700, then buy her a set of Mavic Aksium wheels and Continental Ultra Gatorskin 700×25 tires. I had that combination on my road bike and rode thousands of trouble-free miles on it.

      You must stay with the wheel size that’s currently on the bike (the 26 vs the 700). It’s theoretically possible to change but the amount of work and new parts you’d need would likely cost more than her bike is worth.


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    • Tom
    • February 13, 2014

    What Is The Best Wheel Set To Buy? Im looking at getting some new wheels for my roadbike, but don’t know what wheelset would be best to get. I’m looking for a lightweight wheel strong and at a resonable price, say around ??250 or under. Thanks.

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      I’ve recommended these wheels several times as an excellent value: Xero xr1.

      They are light, well made and cheap at $230 or so. (well under 200 pounds) They are available on EBay and many on-line bike shops.

      Here’s a couple links:


      I threw a pair my friend has on my bike for a test ride. They are fast, fairly stiff and look nice too. My bud road them all season without any truing – he loves ’em. And at about 1550 grams are very light for the price.

      The Aksium wheels are very well made, bulletproof and cheap too. The down side is they are pretty heavy. If weight isn’t an issue they are a great general road wheel.

      The EA70 wheels, I haven’t used but they just fit your budget and are faily light. Easton and Mavic both make excellent products.

      Also, check these M28 sl & R28 Neuvation wheels: I haven’t used them but have heard good things about them.

      I think all these wheels are worth consideration.

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    Trying To Get My Parts For A Wheel Set? I am trying to build a wheel set for racing. I have my training set and I just want an extra set. I think this is the part I am looking for, but does this make sense to you all? “A rear bicycle hub, 36 hole, quick release, 8 speed, 135 mm”. Do they make these still? Where is the easiest place to find one? Should I just try to build a set from new specifications and only use the 135mm 8 speed as my specs?
    I can promise my road bike has 36 spokes. Good thing I think and still light. 700c, 36 spokes, 135mm (i think),
    I have the rims brand new, spokes new, and hubs. The only thing is they are not quick release rear. i hope to find one for less than 60 bucks, and have the rear wheel rebuilt.
    MCG gave me some 10 speed 130 mm, that would not fit my bike. The width will be off. y’all can check the link.
    Whoops, i meant to say 7speed… for a 7 speed drive train.

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      I only have one comment
      a 130mm will work if you get spacers and a longer axle maybe

      though you have to be careful what side you put them on, if you want to swap the wheel and have all the shifting line up exactly

      it would be annoying to have to adjust the back derailleur every time you swap wheels

      ==and of course the number of spokes doesn;t really matter to fitting
      though you may want 36 for other reasons
      swapping the wheel doesn;t know how many spokes there are


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  6. Reply

    All Wheel Drive Sistem On The Cars Does It Have An Option To Swich To Front Wheel Drive?or Rear? Which is the better traction rear wheel drive or front?and 4×4 they can be swiched to front or rear drive?

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      No most vehicles that are all wheel drive use their differential’s to deliver power where it need to be when is required automatically. Some are based on mechanics and others on pre programed computer settings. Do they have the option to switch from front to rear, sure since only one set of wheels usually has the ability to have full power. Now this will depend on weather the vehicle is a front wheel drive with a rear drive differential case or Rear wheel drive with front wheel drive differential case. Most large Vehicles are Rear drive with a front wheel drive differential case. Smaller vehicles are front wheel drive with a rear differential case, not only because is cheaper to make but is much more compact so they can sit lower to the ground(this is done because is cheaper to use only one platform for all trims rather than having a specific platform for a rear drive front wheel differential case vehicle) As to which has better traction, is always a rear wheel drive vehicle of course,but when it comes to dynamics rather than traction alone a front wheel drive vehicle is easier to maneuver by inexperience drivers. A rear wheel drive vehicle will reach it’s maximum torque band before any front wheel vehicle even if they are identical, just because the rear drive will remain inline but a front wheel drive even with computer control will slightly move side to side losing traction for small instants hence delaying it’s full power. A 4×4 system is completely different to an all wheel drive system. A 4X4 has two shafts and no differential case, rather two complete transmissions, so it can deliver full power to all wheel at all times. A true 4X4 could never go over 20km an hour(well unless it was design to do so but that is a more specialized vehicle say a MONSTER TRUCK where some have two independent transmission to run the front and rear wheels), because it would not only wear down the tires, be hard to steer, but because it is delivering the same power to all wheels at the same time. There are vehicles that are all wheel drive and have the option of been 4×4 but in reality they are 3 wheel vehicles since only one of either the front of the rear depending on where the transfer case is located will deliver the same power as the other two wheels at one time. Because they are set to only be driven slow the change from one to the other wheel is not noticeable since it only activates when looss of traction is detected. True 4×4 with all wheel drive are very expensive and you will notice the difference since you are paying for two transmission and a transfer case. As to their uses are very limited to those who use this vehicles off road, for road use even in winter unless the snow is as deep as the tires there is no need for a 4×4. I believe even having all wheel drive vehicles makes people believe they can drive at all speeds in the winter which makes it very dangerous for the rest of us. All wheel drive vehicles are great in slippery conditions, slightly better than a front wheel drive or a rear drive but they must be driven just as careful. Another down side to all wheel drive is Fuel they will cost more to operate, but a true 4×4 cost more due to it’s weight.

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  7. Reply

    26 Wheel Set Or 26? I’m tall i have a xl blur should I buy 26 or 29 wheel set my fork is a 36 van

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      You won’t have the clearance with that fork, even with a small tire. You could buy a 29’er fork, of course, but first check to see if the frame will handle the 29″ rear wheel. Even with an xl frame, I’m betting that it won’t. A 29’er fork really is the best choice, though, because the forks available now have an offset that is adjusted for better handling characteristics. If you’re able to cram a 29″ wheel into your 26″ fork, you may not like the way it feels (and it’s possible that you may get some toe overlap, too).

      I had a friend who was able to put 700c rims with smallish mtb tires on a Soma frame, so you might see if you can test out a pair of those for fit (if you don’t have access to a 29’er set instead).

      I’m not a big fan of the 29er craze, but if you’re really tall you might appreciate them more than most people, as long as your trails aren’t full of too many tight turns or technical uphills that cause you to spin out or stall. If you have those types of trails, you’ll probably be happier staying with 26″ wheels.

      Hope this helps…

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