Fulcrum Racing 3 2 Way-Fit Campy Wheelset Brush Up

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    Best Road Bicycle Wheel Set For The Money? My buddy and I just started biking and we are getting faster each week but not fast yet by any means. Our question is what wheel set would be worth the money. We heard of Hed 3, Zipp, Mavics, etc… Would love opinions. How much speed per mile could be gained with one of the good wheel sets compared to wheels that are ok that came with bike. Thanks

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      There are all sorts of wheels and they would provide different advantages and disadvantages for different types of riding. For example, severely aerodynamic rims are faster but more prone to crosswinds and, being stiffer are not as desirable for long distance.

      You need to consider weight, durability, aerodynamic resistance, type of tire you will be using (clincher or sewup), numeber/type of spokes, spoke pattern, rim and spoke material, etc.

      I don’t want to recommend a specific brand/model, but in general aim for aluminum alloy rims, stainless steel spokes and quality hubs. While the nicest wheels to ride are light weight (minimizing rotating weight is ALLWAYS desirable, for everyday use you will probably be best to avoid really lightweight wheels because you sacrifice durability. Similalry, while a more aerodynamic cross-section rim is faster you don’t want extremes for reasons given above. Wheels with few bladed spokes (16-20 in the front wheel, 20-24 in the rear) are a bit faster.

      I recently bought a bike and upgraded the stock wheels for the next model up because they were about 150 gms lighter for a pair. because of the alloys and design the lighter wheels are just as strong or stronger … but cost a couple of hundred dollars more. See how a little weight saved can cost a lot?

      If you want speed for the flats or mild hills go with aero wheels, but frankly the difference will be most noticable with bladed/fewer spokes and lighter weight relative to your current wheels.

      One hint .. read reviews then look for used wheels. The links are to just one manufacturer’s lineup of wheels and to a good classified site for used bikes and equipment.

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    What Is The Lightest Aluminum Wheel Set? I was wondering who makes the lightest aluminum road wheels? Mavic?

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      No, not Mavic, although they make some nice light wheelsets. The American Classic Sprint 350 is one of the lightest aluminum wheels you can buy at 1300 grams. The Easton EA90 SLX has a claimed weight of 1398 grams for the pair.

      I’ve owned both Easton (Velomax) and American Classic — my daily rider wheels — and have found them to both be very reliable.

      These weights are for clinchers. Aluminum tubulars are usually marginally lighter.

      Probably one of the best sources is here the Weight Weenies web site, link below. Note how much heaver the Mavic Ksyriums are than the wheels I’ve suggested. Oddly enough, the old SSC model weighs in slightly less than the new SL with the “ground out” rim.

      Weight isn’t everything, but take it from an old guy who does a lot of riding in the mountains, it makes a lot of difference in climbing and sprinting. Stay off these ultra-light wheels if you are overweight. You’ll only break them.

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    Looking To Replace Wheel Set? I have a 2011 Cannondale road bike 63CM, looking to replace the wheel set with sram 60. What size wheel set do i get for back and front?

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      All road bikes have a 700C wheel size. Also, I am pressure sure that the Sram S60 only comes in one size: 700C clincher.

      Can I ask why you want those wheels? I know they look cool and are very aero, but they are HEAVY. The S30 AL series is lighter and cheaper. Unless you are doing time trial or triathlon, you will probably be happier with lighter wheels. Also, deep dish wheels can be squirrely in a cross wind.

      Whatever you decide to do, make sure the wheelset you get has a hub that will work with your current cassette. I think most hubs now are either 10 or 11 speed unless you get a really cheap wheelset. Shimano and SRAM are more or less interchangeable, except for a few dura-ace models.

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    Road Bike – Wheel Set And Tyres Suggestions? Hi all,

    I want to buy a friend some road tyres and wheels for her MTB (size 15.5). My friend plans to do more road cycling and it’s her birthday soon so I was going to surprise her. Any recommendations?

    A nice value for money set of wheels and a decent pair of slicks recommendation would be great. Are wheels more important than tyres or the other way around. Or are they equally important?

    Her MTB has v-brakes, not discs in case that makes a big difference.

    Thanks in advance!
    definitely only road cycling with these new wheels and tyres. She’s got mountain bike tyres and wheels (and suspension) for all that other stuff… I was thinking something thin, light-weight with a nice set of slicks as I can’t see her riding in the wet.

    Any brands I should be looking for? My budget is dependant on the quality of the product vs the reviews it’s received. I have no issue shelling out for kit that is great quality and has rav reviews.. Cheers

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      If you can, look at her tires now. There will be numbers on the sidewall. They will start with either 26X (most likely) or 700x. The x will be followed by another number. If the numbers start with 26, buy her a set of 26×1.5 tires. Make sure they have a max pressure at least 80 psi. I once bought a set with a 60 psi max just because they were on sale and I didn’t like the way they rode. If the numbers start with 700, then buy her a set of Mavic Aksium wheels and Continental Ultra Gatorskin 700×25 tires. I had that combination on my road bike and rode thousands of trouble-free miles on it.

      You must stay with the wheel size that’s currently on the bike (the 26 vs the 700). It’s theoretically possible to change but the amount of work and new parts you’d need would likely cost more than her bike is worth.


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    • Tom
    • February 15, 2014

    What Is The Best Wheel Set To Buy? Im looking at getting some new wheels for my roadbike, but don’t know what wheelset would be best to get. I’m looking for a lightweight wheel strong and at a resonable price, say around ??250 or under. Thanks.

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      I’ve recommended these wheels several times as an excellent value: Xero xr1.

      They are light, well made and cheap at $230 or so. (well under 200 pounds) They are available on EBay and many on-line bike shops.

      Here’s a couple links:


      I threw a pair my friend has on my bike for a test ride. They are fast, fairly stiff and look nice too. My bud road them all season without any truing – he loves ’em. And at about 1550 grams are very light for the price.

      The Aksium wheels are very well made, bulletproof and cheap too. The down side is they are pretty heavy. If weight isn’t an issue they are a great general road wheel.

      The EA70 wheels, I haven’t used but they just fit your budget and are faily light. Easton and Mavic both make excellent products.

      Also, check these M28 sl & R28 Neuvation wheels: I haven’t used them but have heard good things about them.

      I think all these wheels are worth consideration.

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    Trying To Get My Parts For A Wheel Set? I am trying to build a wheel set for racing. I have my training set and I just want an extra set. I think this is the part I am looking for, but does this make sense to you all? “A rear bicycle hub, 36 hole, quick release, 8 speed, 135 mm”. Do they make these still? Where is the easiest place to find one? Should I just try to build a set from new specifications and only use the 135mm 8 speed as my specs?
    I can promise my road bike has 36 spokes. Good thing I think and still light. 700c, 36 spokes, 135mm (i think),
    I have the rims brand new, spokes new, and hubs. The only thing is they are not quick release rear. i hope to find one for less than 60 bucks, and have the rear wheel rebuilt.
    MCG gave me some 10 speed 130 mm, that would not fit my bike. The width will be off. y’all can check the link.
    Whoops, i meant to say 7speed… for a 7 speed drive train.

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      I only have one comment
      a 130mm will work if you get spacers and a longer axle maybe

      though you have to be careful what side you put them on, if you want to swap the wheel and have all the shifting line up exactly

      it would be annoying to have to adjust the back derailleur every time you swap wheels

      ==and of course the number of spokes doesn;t really matter to fitting
      though you may want 36 for other reasons
      swapping the wheel doesn;t know how many spokes there are


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    All Wheel Drive Sistem On The Cars Does It Have An Option To Swich To Front Wheel Drive?or Rear? Which is the better traction rear wheel drive or front?and 4×4 they can be swiched to front or rear drive?

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      No most vehicles that are all wheel drive use their differential’s to deliver power where it need to be when is required automatically. Some are based on mechanics and others on pre programed computer settings. Do they have the option to switch from front to rear, sure since only one set of wheels usually has the ability to have full power. Now this will depend on weather the vehicle is a front wheel drive with a rear drive differential case or Rear wheel drive with front wheel drive differential case. Most large Vehicles are Rear drive with a front wheel drive differential case. Smaller vehicles are front wheel drive with a rear differential case, not only because is cheaper to make but is much more compact so they can sit lower to the ground(this is done because is cheaper to use only one platform for all trims rather than having a specific platform for a rear drive front wheel differential case vehicle) As to which has better traction, is always a rear wheel drive vehicle of course,but when it comes to dynamics rather than traction alone a front wheel drive vehicle is easier to maneuver by inexperience drivers. A rear wheel drive vehicle will reach it’s maximum torque band before any front wheel vehicle even if they are identical, just because the rear drive will remain inline but a front wheel drive even with computer control will slightly move side to side losing traction for small instants hence delaying it’s full power. A 4×4 system is completely different to an all wheel drive system. A 4X4 has two shafts and no differential case, rather two complete transmissions, so it can deliver full power to all wheel at all times. A true 4X4 could never go over 20km an hour(well unless it was design to do so but that is a more specialized vehicle say a MONSTER TRUCK where some have two independent transmission to run the front and rear wheels), because it would not only wear down the tires, be hard to steer, but because it is delivering the same power to all wheels at the same time. There are vehicles that are all wheel drive and have the option of been 4×4 but in reality they are 3 wheel vehicles since only one of either the front of the rear depending on where the transfer case is located will deliver the same power as the other two wheels at one time. Because they are set to only be driven slow the change from one to the other wheel is not noticeable since it only activates when looss of traction is detected. True 4×4 with all wheel drive are very expensive and you will notice the difference since you are paying for two transmission and a transfer case. As to their uses are very limited to those who use this vehicles off road, for road use even in winter unless the snow is as deep as the tires there is no need for a 4×4. I believe even having all wheel drive vehicles makes people believe they can drive at all speeds in the winter which makes it very dangerous for the rest of us. All wheel drive vehicles are great in slippery conditions, slightly better than a front wheel drive or a rear drive but they must be driven just as careful. Another down side to all wheel drive is Fuel they will cost more to operate, but a true 4×4 cost more due to it’s weight.

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    26 Wheel Set Or 26? I’m tall i have a xl blur should I buy 26 or 29 wheel set my fork is a 36 van

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      You won’t have the clearance with that fork, even with a small tire. You could buy a 29’er fork, of course, but first check to see if the frame will handle the 29″ rear wheel. Even with an xl frame, I’m betting that it won’t. A 29’er fork really is the best choice, though, because the forks available now have an offset that is adjusted for better handling characteristics. If you’re able to cram a 29″ wheel into your 26″ fork, you may not like the way it feels (and it’s possible that you may get some toe overlap, too).

      I had a friend who was able to put 700c rims with smallish mtb tires on a Soma frame, so you might see if you can test out a pair of those for fit (if you don’t have access to a 29’er set instead).

      I’m not a big fan of the 29er craze, but if you’re really tall you might appreciate them more than most people, as long as your trails aren’t full of too many tight turns or technical uphills that cause you to spin out or stall. If you have those types of trails, you’ll probably be happier staying with 26″ wheels.

      Hope this helps…

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    Need Advice To Buy A Set Of Alloy Wheels.? I have Mazda Familia 2001…thinking of fitting set of alloy wheels….but dont know what to look for?what size would be/look the best?when they mention curbing on the alloy wheels what does it mean?can the curb be repaired?what is offset?Most of all…what should i look for when buying a second hand?Thank u….

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      Quick answer to your questions…bearing in mind these are U.S. based answers and USD prices.

      1. In looking to purchase aftermarket wheels, you want a reliable name brand wheel from a company that has been around for a while. You do not want Italian made wheels, because the alloy is very soft and will bend very easily. Most specifically, you want to buy something that is not already discontinued, as 90% of aftermarket wheels are discontinued every 1-3 years.

      2. In terms of what size would look the best, it depends on your aesthetic but I would not go over 17″ on a sedan like that unless you are ready to have your wheels straightened frequently.

      3. Curbing means curb scrapes. Depending on how hard the curb was hit, this could be a few teeny dings on the face to the whole finish around the rim being rubbed off. People frequently claim their wheels are only curb scraped when they actually are bent or have more severe damage than they will admit to.

      4. Some curb rash will be repaired. Repairs range between $150 each for a smaller, one piece painted and machined wheel to $300 for a hypersilver, large, two piece wheel. Those repair prices are per wheel, not per set. If the wheels are chromed, you can expect to pay $500 or more each to get them rechromed because rechroming is difficult to find. Bear in mind that chromeplating is increasingly regulated by the EPA because chrome is so toxic, so it is nearly impossible for a wheel to be stripped off without causing damage to the structure of the wheel. As a result, the surface that remains to rechrome is so pock-marked and uneven that it is difficult to get a satisfactory result. My family’s business stopped offering chromeplating services because of this issue. Set after set were coming in uneven, pock marked and horrible.

      5. Offset is the distance between the back of the rim and where the brake calipers should be in relationship to the back of the rim. Rims should be printed with a number that will say “ET” and then a number like “38” and 38 is the offset.

      6. Please don’t buy secondhand wheels. They are usually for sale for a reason, and that reason is usually the other person has damaged them. You can get decent quality new wheels for the price of most used wheels if you look carefully and do your research and you won’t be buying someone else’s troubles.

      Now, a warning: here is the scenario I see every day: A customer pulls up full of hope with a trunk full of wheels he recently purchased for a really great price from his childhood friend/co-worker/some guy off of ebay. The person he bought the rims from has assured him that the rims are barely used and only slightly damaged…just a little nick here, just a touch of curb scrapes there. Usually the person bringing me the wheels has paid in cash and has no recourse, and I leave my counter in the able hands of my assistant to discover that my potential customer has just paid hard-earned cash for what amounts to scrap metal. Sure, the wheels are barely nicked, but they are chromeplated and therefore cost $500 and up each to refinish…if we could even find a good chromeplater for them, which we can’t. Sure, there is just a little damage on one of the rims…but the damage is a crack, and it is on the front face of the wheel, which means we can’t repair that rim, and since one rim is totaled and the person only has 3 more…the set is useless.

      Please don’t let that be you. If you absolutely must buy aftermarket wheels, get them new, get a reliable brand that is not Italian. Italian alloy is mandated by the Italian government to be soft so it bends, not breaks when you are going 120 on the highway. Their roads are smooth and beautiful. Roads everywhere else are not, and the wheels bend easily. Please don’t buy tremendously large wheels. Upsize one or two inches at the most, and let the reason your car looks good is because you picked an attractive wheel, not an overly huge, garish one.

      Also bear in mind that the larger you go, the more expensive the tires are and the more limited the selection is of tires.

      I wish you very good luck, but be very, very careful, and please, if you live someplace with ice and snow, hold on to your old rims for the winter months. It will prolong the life of your aftermarket rims to bang up the old ones on winter potholes!

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    Wondering What Years YZ250f All Have Same Rear Wheel Set? Want to know what year range yz or yzf rear tires will fit withut modification or purchasing new wheel spacers.

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      Bradley,,I’m not 100% Perfect Certain,,,but I beleive they are All the same.

      The actual center hub is the same for 250F’s and 450’s.

      Theres some changes showing in sprocket-side wheel bearing,,,,
      and some different axles and spacers.

      The main battle in wheel swap wars is the HUB itself.

      The wheel bearings with different part numbers can be because of several different reasons.
      Example,,,the SIZE may be the same.
      But they could have changed the Grade of the bearing,,,or from metal-shielded to rubber seal,,,,or steel ball retainer to plastic,,,or radial clearance dimensions,,,etc,etc..

      It may be same SIZE,,,
      which is what matters in a Swap.
      But it may be a different “Kind” of bearing,,,engineering-specs-wise…..which makes NO difference in a swap.

      Even if you had to replace a bearing,,that’s Cheap and Easy

      If You have your original wheel,,,,axle,spacers,etc.,,
      I’m 99% certain that Any of them will interchange by “mix & match” some of your orignal parts with the “new” wheel

      The 250 YZ 2 Strokes,and the 450F’s have a Wider Wheel
      They are 2.15 x 19
      the 250 F has 1.85 x19

      Which won’t,or SHOULDNT ,,make any difference far as a Swap is concerned.
      That’s only 1/3″ wider Overall,,,so I doubt swingarm clearance would be a factor if you used the wider wheel.

      Hope that helps

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