Get Your Ride On!
Mountain Bike Frame Question? Is this a good size for a 26 year old male that is 5’9″ tall?
28.7″ H x 7.6″ W x 53.5″ D
it is 18″ frame height, sorry
it is 18″ frame height, sorry
The only true way to tell for sure is TRY B4 you BUY. You should be able to comfortably stand over the bike flat footed with about 2″ of clearance on a mountain bike. All indications from sizing charts do indicate that this is the correct size though. Bike frames are NOT universal in size. They vary slightly from one company to the next in stand-over height.
From your first set of specs, sounds as if you are ordering via the Internet from a discount store. Bad choice.
Mountain Bike Disc Brakes? Can I put disc brakes on my Tribal mountain bike?
Your frame has to be set up for disk brakes to do it if not there are adapters that you can buy to do this.
Need Help In Mountain Bike Geometry? What does a slack and tight head tube means?
and roughly what are their angle?
Sfr1224 is correct. Head angle is an important part of frame geometry that you’re more likely to feel when you ride. It’s only one aspect of frame design, but it’s a biggie.
Slack head angles do more than slow the steering response, though…..they also have the effect of slightly shifting the rider’s weight rearward, further behind the front axle. This, combined with the typically longer fork travel that accompanies slack frame geometry, helps with rider balance and impact absorption when your bike is pointed downhill. Another effect it has is to lengthen the wheelbase, which provides some stability at speed and in cornering.
The steeper the terrain that the bike is meant to handle, the more slack the head angle. You can feel two degrees of difference if you know what you’re looking for. Serious downhill bikes may have heads as slack as 64?. Light freeride and 5″-6″ trailbikes will hover around 66?-69?, and xc/race frames will stick to the more traditional 70?-71?. Road bikes, in comparison, are usually 71?-74?.
Steep head angles are really responsive, and there are some dirt jump and trials bikes with a steep head that are really nice to maneuver. They make riding through tight, twisty trails a little easier, but if you’re in rough terrain or steep terrain, they make it a tad easier to wash out the front wheel in a corner or to go over the bars when you get surprised by obstacles (however, slack head angles won’t cure endo-sickness….fair warning. LOL) :o)
In contrast, if you put a slack head angle bike on flat ground, the steering will feel sorta dead, and if you turn the bars hard, there’s a “breakover” point where the wheel meets resistance and then snaps past it….kinda sucks until you get used to it. As an example, a couple years ago I bought a freeride hardtail frame….very burly, and I wanted to set it up for urban drops, etc. I was used to xc frames with 70?ish heads, and this was a 67? bike designed around a 130mm fork (5″). It felt bad to me, and wasn’t what I wanted for riding the ledges on square planter boxes, quick maneuvers on stairs and tight cornering…..or for trackstands, pivots, etc. So, I put a 100mm fork on the bike which had the effect of steepening the head angle by about 1?. Changed a couple other aspects on the stem/handlebars, too, but it improved the handling for my purposes. You don’t want to vary a whole lot from what the manufacturer designed (and putting longer forks on bikes designed for shorter ones is generally a bad idea for safety/durability)…..but there’s a little room to play.
There is a lot more to frame geometry and what-affects-what, how the bike feels and handles, etc. Chainstay length, seat tube angle, and bottom bracket drop (height) are all important numbers to pay attention to if you want a particular type of frame/handling. It gets a little complex, but manufacturers have tweaked geometry into different variations that work very nicely for their applications. It’s funny, though……in a couple hundred years or whatever, the initial design of the bike frame hasn’t changed very much at all. Whoever came up with it was either lucky or pretty intelligent! :o)
What Mountain Bike Frame Size Would You Recommend? I’ve had lots of different advice from shop assistants & from online charts & guides. I can’t seem to get a straight answer. I’ve been recommended 16″ all the way up to 20″. What dual/full suspension mtb frame size do you think would suit a person with the following measurements?
Height; 5′ 7″
Thanks for your help!
For most mountain bikes you want a frame that is 59% of you inseam and allows 2-4 inches of clearance when you stand over it. 32 X .59 = 18.88 inches If the frame is too small the cockpit will feel cramped and the handle bars will be a lot lower then the saddle. Too large and you will have to lean too far forward to reach the handlebars. A women’s specific bike will have a shorter top tube then the men’s version. Have the bike shop set up bike for you to try, the fore and aft position of the saddle can make a big difference in the reach to the bars.
Looking For A 150mm Rear Spacing Frame? What are a few good bike frames with 150mm of rear hub spacing?
I’m looking for a all mountain – downhill double suspension frame.
Why are you set on a 150mm hub? Typically, you want to base your hub search around the frame specs that best suits your riding styles, not vice versa.
That said, the Santa Cruz Bullit is a 150mm hub and would be a great all mountain ride. If you dont like single pivot bikes, the VP-Free is a similar type of all mountain/freeride frame with the VPP suspension and a 150mm rear end. The Intense SOCOM is another similar bike, but with a bit more travel, that features 150mm. Some of the Commencals and Rocky Mountain bikes use 150mm, Foes are 150mm, some of the beefier Kona’s are 150… As a general rule, if the bb width is 73mm or higher, its likely to be a 150mm for chainline purposes. A 63mm bb is more likely a 135 hub.
Also, just so you know… a downhill bike and an all-mountain bike are two very different things. A DH bike is gonna be single ring, long travel, slack geometry… an all-mountain bike is really just like a long travel xc rig with two or three rings and a much more snappy geometry for slow speed handling.