Surly 2012 Surly Pacer Frameset 42cm Sparkleboogie Blue Appraisal

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  1. Reply

    What Are The Best Road Bike Frame And Wheel Set In The World Currently? Hi, i’m currently doing a school project on the ultimate road bike. I would like to know the brand, material and any other information that you have about the frame and or the wheel set, also why is it the best?
    Best for road races, i will not actually make the bike though as it would be very expensive

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      As intimated to you last time, you must consider application as well as other things. There is no “best” frame or wheel set.

      If you want the best craftsmanship in a frame, you would do well to choose a Columbine. If you want the best overall steel frame, Bob Jackson is probably going to be an excellent choice.

      Scratch that.

      In my opinion, frames made of lugged steel should be in the running for “best”, followed closely by magnesium, then titanium, then aluminum, then carbon fiber.

      Regarding wheel sets, ANYTHING is better than a carbon fiber set.

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  2. Reply

    Road Bicycle Frame Material??? I’m a bit in the dark here. I’m about to make the switch to a road bike from a mountain bike (I’m currently living in the city). I was set on getting a Giant OCR aluminum framed bike, but after doing a bit of research found out that people say it is NOT a smooth ride, and steel is much more comfortable, and that newer steel frames are getting lighter as well (with weight being previously a pitfall for steel). Can someone break down the differences, and what I should get? I don’t want titanium, or scandium etc. because I must consider price. Also, what are some good STEEL framed bikes to consider? I’d want the STI shifters (the shifters on the brake levels). Also, if someone knows a lot about bikes please email me at, I’d really appreciate talking to someone knowledgable. My budget is 500$ or below as well. Thanks!

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      You won’t be getting much for $500, and won’t really have a choice at that price point. You will be getting heavy wheels, Sora shifters (that you can ONLY shift from the hoods), Taiwanese Tektro components, an all aluminum frame and probably an aluminum fork. You’ll be lucky to find a carbon fork at that price.

      Not to disappoint you, but your budget is VERY low for a new road bike. For some reason, they tend to be more expensive than mountain bikes, and there is a large price gap between your budget and a decent starting ride.

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  3. Reply

    What Is The Best Road Bike I Can Get For Up To $2,000 Dollars? I’m looking to buy a road bike (top of the line) and I am looking to get opinions on what my most viable options are? Thanks for your time.

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      Top of the line road bikes start at about $5000 and go up from there.

      But $2000 can buy a pretty awesome bike for us mere mortals with mortgages and budgets.

      I think you have some important trade-offs to consider. You can buy a bike very near this range with a carbon fiber frame and a lower group of components or you can buy a bike with a very good aluminum frame and a better component set. In this price range you will mostly find 105/Ultegra and the equal SRAM group Rival.

      Here are some ideas (in no particular order):
      Cervelo S1 (2010) 2K
      Aluminum frame – Ultegra group
      Can probably still find new at bike shops the 2010 model for less than 2K.

      Neuvation F100 ~2K
      Aluminum frame – SRAM Red – 15.5lbs (Appears you can find this bike for about 2K with the top of the line SRAM components, or you can choose SRAM Rival and save about $500).

      Jamis Xenith Endura ~1.8K
      Carbon fiber frame – 105 component set – 19.75lb (heavy for a CF bike).

      Raleigh Record Ace ~$2K
      Steel Frame! (don’t see that everyday) Ultegra group – a bit hefty at 21.5lb.

      Yet another option would be to pick out a frame in the ~1K range that you like and have your bike shop build it with a 105 build set. The bike store will be able to get a better deal than you for build kits so the cost is a semi-custom configuration and just a few hundred dollar more than rolling it off the floor. However you will generally get a better deal buying a complete bike.

      Have Fun!

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    • Mark
    • February 15, 2014

    Need A Tip On Buying A Road Bike, Maybe 2nd Hand. Help Me Cycling Experts!? I’m in the market for a new bicycle, but seeing as the last bike I owned was a birthday present for my 14th birthday a fair few years back, I’m not really up to speed on these things.

    My last was a full suspension mountain bike, and was HEAVY. And spent most of its time on the road.. when it wasn’t in the garage. So this time I want a road bike, I’m not really sure what you’d class it as, not a full racing bike with the clip in pedals etc but very light, fast and strong.

    You may correct me on this, but I had a hunch these bikes are the sort of thing people buy, never use, and sell on. So I thought I could get a really good deal buying 2nd hand. So if you could help me out with particular brands/models to look out for I’d be massively grateful.

    My specification;
    Must be a light and fast road bike, but can handle a bit of dirt occasionally.
    There’s a possibility it may be taken on a cycle trip through France, so it has to be able to handle rougher stuff moderately well occasionally.
    I’m 6’2″, if that makes any difference.

    Again, any advice or tips on what to look out for much appreciated.

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    1. Reply

      Problem is that light fast road bikes don’t take to dirt very well and are not suitable for long or even medium distance touring. You might do OK with a commuter style bike though.

      I’m not a huge authority on this but there are some things I have learned over the years.

      Bikes with suspensions are heavy. Knobbly tyres are great on dirt but just make the bike harder to push on pavement, plus the bikes they are on tend to be lower geared than road bikes and that means more spinning the pedals for the same distance. Slick tyres are good on pavement but not so good on dirt, the compromise has a fine tread on them. Some tyres are said to be “thorn proof” and come in three grades of that, the most expensive are the most resistant.

      Light fast road bikes will generally have full carbon frame, or an alloy / titanium frame with carbon front forks. But they are no good for long distance touring if you have to carry your own luggage as they can collapse under the extra weight of tent, clothing, food and water. They may have no provision for mudguards / fenders. Carbon frames can collapse disastrously if the carbon is nicked or deeply scratched where a metal frame will give some indication of failure first.

      In bikes without suspensions, steel frames are supposed to give a smoother ride than alloy, possibly because the steel flexes a little more. My boss is an former road and velodrome rider and does not own a car. He rides three different bikes regularly, one was built for him, another is an old Apollo, I don’t recall what the third is, but they are all steel framed. He says the main difference between one bike and another is not so much the frame, it is the “group set” which is the brake and gear fittings. The Japanese made ones from Shimano are generally pretty good, but there is a variation in price among them and you get what you pay for. Campagnolo are similar, made in Italy and until recently thought to be better than anything the Japanese made, and are still considered pretty darn good.

      For years the best quality bikes were supposed to be the Italian “Bianchi” models and they are still up there, cyclists in the know will salivate when they see one.

      Bike frames are made in different sizes for people with different leg, arm and torso lengths. For instance, a lady’s frame may be just as tall as a man’s but it will probably be shorter as women tend to be shorter in the torso. If your bike saddle is so low that your knees are still well bent at the bottom of the pedal strokes, it’s too low.

      Another man I know has a recent Surly “Long Haul Trucker” which is a road bike made specially for long distance cycle touring. It has several points where luggage racks etc may be fitted and it can be fitted with mudguards / fenders which you will want if you are going cycle touring. Price is fairly high but not the most expensive I have seen. It has a pretty good review on-line, but it’s not the only bike made for that kind of use.

      If you are thinking of a French cycle trip, the roads will generally be fairly good, even off the major highways, the French started doing up their roads even before the motor car was invented. They have a big population in a fairly small country (compared to Canada, the USA or Australia) so can afford good roads.

      Your best bet? You would be right about some bikes being bought, ridden a few times etc. Educate yourself a bit about what’s been available, then start prowling the bike shops. (not K-Mart or Walmart) and tell them you are in the market for a good used whatever to suit your height and intended use. Leave a phone number, but don’t expect them to have something ideal in stock just then. Most new bike shops with any kind of workshop attached will deal in good used bikes. I bought an Apollo about 5 years old then at a local shop for $200 and rode it to work for 16 years until some low-life stole it. B@stards

      See the Sheldon Brown site for more information. Also go buy a few cycling magazines and read them, you’ll learn a lot. Also google “veloculture” and “tweed run for some sidelights on cycle culture.

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