Get Your Ride On!
Road Bike Or Mountain Bike? I’ll be riding along concrete trails a lot, but I also want to be able to ride in my backyard which is rather hilly. I get tired easily so I need something easy, but I don’t want it easy enough and “loose” enough to go every whichaway when I decided to ride through rocky and rough terrain.
so which would work, road bike or mountain bike?
Mountain bike. The mountain bikes are comfortable and easy to ride. When you get tired, they have plenty of low gears so that you can pedal fast, not hard. You also have the option of getting suspension with the mountain bikes. I wouldn’t get a FS bike (Full Suspension) if I were you, but definitely front. The hard tails (Front suspension only) are fun to ride, lighter than the FS bikes, and still offer some cushioning.
The tires you use will have a lot of impact on your riding too. Don’t get anything too aggressive, or knobby or your pavement riding will be tough.
Lastly, get the best bike you can afford. It will be worth it. Get a cheap bike and riding wont be fun. Then your money will have been wasted anyway.
What Are Good Mountain Bikes? I’m looking for a mountain bike with speed and a good Uphill climb system.
Mountain bikes aren’t exactly known for their speed. Speed comes with a road bike that has thinner & taller 700C road tires & a higher gear ratio. Hill climbing is another story.
The smaller the gears on the front & the larger on the rear converts to more torque & better hill climbing power. Examples — compare the two bikes listed below. The first bike (Dawes Haymaker 1000) has a 22/32/42T chainring on the front & a 11-30T rear cassette or cog. The lowest gear would be 22 teeth on the front & 30 on the rear.
Second bike (Motobecane 300 HT) has a 28/38/48T front chainring and a rear cog of 12-28T. Now the lowest gear possible is 28 teeth on the front & 28 on the rear. The first bike would have better hill climbing power.
Look for a quality bike from a real bicycle shop – or Bikes Direct.com. The best ones will have both double walled rims & a cassette/freehub – not a freewheel.
Trek Calypso As Mountain Bike? I just bought a Trek Calypso out of the newspaper from a very nice couple. They were telling me that it was a mountain bike and they have put new tires on it which look like they’ll do the job. My only concern is that everything I’ve seen on the internet labels the calypso as a “cruiser”. Is it possible to use it on trails and non/paved areas? This is important as I live in the mountains. Thank you!
Mountain biking is a sport where people go very fast on bicycles up, and down mountains on rugged trails crossing streams, logs, rock drops, and other high speed obstacles. These Bicycles used for this sport do not dub well as urban, commuter bikes, or road bikes. They are made specifically for Mountain Biking. If you are interested in beginning to mountain bike, the Calypso is not the bicycle for you. Hence the name Calypso, it may be a good bike for a resident of the city of New Orleans, rather than say, Boulder CO. If you are interested in cruising town (not road biking), taking trails and shortcuts when you want to; and possibly going trail riding on saturdays with friends, then you have purchased an ideal bike.
BUYING A MOUNTAIN BIKE? Yo, wanna start some off-road mountain biking so want to buy a bike, now don’t know whether to splash out on a decent one or just start off with something cheapy from halfords… Is it worth buying a cheaper one for now to see how I get on with it? Never ridden really since i was younger
First off, you’ll love mountain biking and are joining a very good community! ?
For a nice, entry level functional mountain bike that don’t have limitations against the standard trail with a few rocks, there are 2 things I’d say are absolutely quinetessential: a cassette type hub (at least a 24 speed is the easy way to determine this), and double wall rims, for your safety and the durability of the bike. Also, the more you spend up front, the better bike you’ll get… it is MUCH cheaper getting your components on the bike than upgrading.
As a rule of thumb, 500 dollars will get you into this range. Go to some bike stores and hop on some bikes!
My gut says to look into a 2011 Specialized hardrock given your circumstances. Bare bones and tough as nails… even the 2011 base model, priced at $420 fits the bill. (I actually do not have this type of bike, but for a nice entry level to be proud of, this is what I’d get). If you’re hoping to expand your hobby, please read on.
Nice aluminum brands that could serve you well in that range would include Specialized (Hardrock, Rockhopper), Trek (4300, 4500, 6 series), Gary Fisher (now a Trek line), Cannondale (F7, F5, Trail SL 3), and Giant (Rincon, Yukon, Revel 0, 1). 29ers (29 vs 26 inch wheels) have their strenghts and weaknesses. They are smoother rolling and will roll over larger bumps with ease. You can go distances with less effort, but they will cost more. However, back to basics, smaller wheels equal more accelleration up slopes and more techical handling. Some 29ers in your range are the Giant Talon, Specialized Hardrock sport disc 29, Cannondale Trail 4 29er, and several Gary fisher Models (note, Gary Fisher’s geometry is awesome for some, a nightmare for others as is has a longer, more aggressive cockpit length which isn’t always the best for leisurely riding. Disc brakes are nice for stopping on a dime in wet circumstances.
I’d highly recommend one of these brands over a store brand such as Pacific, Mongoose, Diamondback, (exception, they do make some nice models), which you will compromise on the frame. The frame is the core of the bike, which is the part you’ll be keeping as you upgrade. So getting a model of bike in each brand that has that nice frame tier jump will make you a bit more futureproof. Trek’s don’t give you a nice frame until the 7 series, which is much over budget, Cannondales arguably make the best frame, Trail SL, for that price range. Specialized Rockhoppers get a frame upgrade over the Hardrocks, however, it is less durable. Giant Talon 29er is the Aluxx SL vs the regular aluminum.
Ok, I could go on and on.. I’ll stop here, but here’s the thing… for the money, its a balance of components, weight, and strength. Find a bike that fits, with a reasonably nice and adjustable fork (your most expensive upgrade when it comes to it, hydraulic lockout is nice, so you can turn it off and save your power when on the road while in motion). They each have dramatic differences. But take your time and visit some bike shops.